†††† †††† †††† ††††



I reached The Painted Desert and Petrified Forest National Park around noon and figured I would go see some rocks and be back to the tourist center restaurant by 1pm for lunch.But once I entered the park and could see the views, I knew I would be there for most of the afternoon.Pictures canít do justice to how amazing the rock formations are, and the strange colours and layers that have formed on them.I spent three hours driving the 26 miles of the park and had to have a granola bar for lunch.† There was also some Indian ruins along the way as well as the shell of an old car to mark the path of Route 66.† In the picture of the car, you can see the telephone lines that used to follow the route back in the thirties, even though there's obviously no road there anymore; just a field.† The strange colours of the Painted Desert come from a various combination of minerals and decayed plant and animal matter.

In the southern area of the park, the Painted Desert ends and the Petrified Forest begins.† Over 200 million years ago a forest was buried under the mud of a river system, and over time crystallized from wood into quartz.† There are logs scattered over the plains, that are cracked but still in good condition.

I finally got into Holbroke about 4pm and checked into the Wigwam Village.This was the stop I wanted to make the most on all of Route 66.There used to be several wigwam villages along the route but the only ones that are still in business are the one in Holbroke and one in San Bernadino in California, but the guidebooks say that that one is in a sketchy neighbourhood.

† Each room at the Wigwam Village is in a large concrete tee pee and outside each door is a classic car from the Route 66 era (1930ís-70ís).† Oprah had apparently spent a night here a couple of weeks before on her summer vacation.

Anyways, I was starving so I walked down the road to The Butterfield Stage Company Steakhouse.I was the only one there at that time and I just wanted something really light to tide me over until dinner when I would be coming back for a steak.So I ordered mozzarella sticks.I donít recommend doing that.When in Arizona, donít order mozzarella sticks.Iíll leave it at that.

I walked around town for a bit but there wasnít too much to see, so I went back and watched TV for while until I got hungry again, and then returned to the restaurant.I had a New York Strip steak, which was very good.Apparently, they donít get as testy about the New York Strip in Arizona as they do in Texas.

I finished the night by buying a couple cans of Bud at the gas station across the road and watching a Johnny Cash special on CMT.††

Day 12

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It was going to be another short day to Flagstaff before the marathon day through the desert, so I stopped outside of Holbroke in Joseph City which is no longer a city.† It has just one store, possibly the most famous store on all of Route 66; The Jack Rabbit Trading Post.On Route 66, there used to be big yellow signs with a black silhouette of a rabbit and the number of miles to go until Joseph City.There were no other words, but these signs lined the old route in both directions, all the way to L.A. in the West and Chicago in the East.It was incredibly popular with kids who would see the very simple, starkly-painted signs and conjure up all kinds of fantasies about what could possibly be at the very end.Now, itís only a store but back in the heyday of Route 66 there was also a rabbit petting zoo, and only one sign remains; the one outside the store that says, ďHere It Is.ĒI bought a few things and then got my picture taken next the giant porcelain Jack-Rabbit that guards the store.

After Joseph City, I drove for about an hour and stopped in Winslow at the Falcon Family Restaurant.Winslow had definitely seen better times and the people were pretty hard-core.A guy actually brought his oxygen tank into the smoking section with him.I ordered the beef tacos, which were mammoth, but pretty bland, so I poured some of the excellent salsa into them and that made it all better.The salsa at the Falcon Family Restaurant has to be one of the best Iíve ever tasted.I couldíve skipped the tacos and just had chips and salsa, and I wouldíve been just fine.

An hour or so later, and I began to drive up the mountains into Flagstaff.It was amazing to see the landscape change from hot, dusty flatland desert to rolling hills with bushes and then to mountains with pine trees that cooled the temperature off considerably.

I wanted to find a hotel near a place called The Museum Club, which is on Old Route 66.It is the largest log cabin in the Southwest and used to be a museum with all kinds of animals that were stuffed and mounted throughout the cabin.After the owner died, the people who bought it turned it into a nightclub and changed the name from the Zoo Club to the Museum Club.It is famous in Flagstaff for the live country music and the fact that Willie Nelson used to play there.So as I pulled into the outskirts of the town, I was on the lookout for the giant guitar sign that is posted outside the club, and finally saw it next to a Howard Johnson.I quickly pulled into the parking lot and looked around for any other, more independent hotels but there was nothing else in sight except for a gas station, so Howard Johnsonís it would have to be.

I dropped my things in the room and walked over to check out the Museum Club.I had a few beers with all the guys watching the horse racing in the afternoon, and man can those guys swear up a storm!† I lived in Queens for almost ten years and I've never heard curse words used with such invention and creativity.† I was almost getting embarrassed by the end of it.Some people occasionally drop the F-Bomb, but these guys were using it to carpet-bomb their conversation.It didnít help that there was Off-Track Betting at the front desk of the club.They would lose, swear, tear up their tickets, swear a few more times for good measure and then go and bet on the next horse. And then swear again.I left after a few beers and went back to my room for a nap.

I woke up around seven and went to the Ho Joís restaurant and got a green chili burger. Itís a specialty in Arizona and New Mexico which I hadnít had a chance to try yet, but itís really just a burger with a couple of green chilies on top, nothing special.

Then I went to the Museum Club and had a few beers.My waitress, Tara, kept sitting down next to me and asking when I was going to do shots, so not wanting to