California

 

    

 

    
About half an hour outside of Oatman, the mighty Colorado River comes into view and California beyond it.  This is the river that the Joad family from the movie, "The Grapes of Wrath" bathes in to celebrate their arrival in California. 

I drove over the border and gassed up in Needles, CA where it was just over $4 a gallon, so I didn’t put too much in.  I got a nice shot of the covered wagon statue that graces the downtown square in Needles, just before a thunderstorm hit.  It was completely bizarre that after about five hours in the desert, I should reach California only to be hit with a thunderstorm.  But it only lasted a few minutes and in no time I was leaving Needles and the small oasis of palm trees.  The desert continued, with nothing around me but the sun that began to slowly slip down over the horizon. 

This was the loneliest strip of Route 66; barely any cars, barely any signs of life at all.  Driving into Amboy the sign said, “Welcome to Amboy, CA; population 1,898.”  I don’t know when that sign went up but it looked like the population had decreased some over the years; by about 1,898.  It was a complete ghost town, with a hotel and a diner/gas station from the 50’s that were totally abandoned.  I didn’t pass or even see any cars and I got out and looked around at the old diner called The Roadrunner Café.  Absolute desolation.  Getting out of the car was spooky as there was no sound but the wind.  I took a picture and drove quickly out of Amboy.

For the next two hours, Route 66 mainly clung next to a set of railroad tracks that the occasional freight would pass by on, but I could no longer see the interstate.  Every town was abandoned, judging by the 70’s-era cars left in the dust.  The only time I saw a few more recent cars, those pieces of property invariably had “No Trespassing” and “Keep Out” signs, but even they were few.  Everything was few on this part of the Mother Road. 

I made it to Newberry Springs where Route 66 joins up with the interstate and the famous Baghdad Café is located.  There was a cult movie with the same name made in the 80’s, when apparently it was still operated on a stretch of land in a town that no longer exists at all; not even signs or old ruins of buildings.  Someone decided to build a replica and place it in Newberry Springs to try and attract more of the interstate traffic, but when I arrived, it was closed down; symbolic of everything I had passed through that day.

At this point I was starving, so I hopped onto the interstate and drove the last thirty miles or so into Barstow.  I drove along the main street, which was filled with fast food restaurants and chain hotels, which was disappointing.  I pulled into the parking lot of the place I had planned to stay, The Cactus Motel, and immediately turned around and drove out.  To say it was run down would be a compliment.  If there were a crack-cocaine themed Monopoly game, this would be Baltic Avenue.  I got the hell away from there pretty quick and went back to a Comfort Inn.  I checked in and walked across the street to find a place to eat but it was ten o’clock, and the few independent restaurants were closed, so I had to settle for a Del Taco.  The less said, the better.  I then went back and did laundry until about 1am before falling asleep.

 

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