I crossed over the border into Texas around 2pm and everything on the border is pretty desolate, with the only businesses closed down and decaying.

Another couple of hours later I pulled into Shamrock, Texas, which is home to the classic, art-deco style former gas station and diner, The U-Drop Inn.  It is now the offices for the Shamrock Tourist board. 

I was then planning to stay at the hotel across the street but everything in downtown Shamrock looked really sketchy.  Some of the hotels are boarded up and there are a lot of junkyards scattered through the downtown strip.  Luckily, I noticed a sign for The Irish Inn that said swimming pool and HBO and located close to the interstate so I thought it sounded more promising.

When I got to the lobby, the girl behind the desk told me they had a pool, HBO, a restaurant, laundry facilities, etc., etc.  I didn’t really care until she got to the part where she said, “and we do have a bar and lounge, and since this is a dry county, it is the only place to got alcohol in Shamrock.”  Wait, what?  I’m in a dry county?  How the hell did that happen?  Do dry counties still actually exist?  The girl behind the desk assured me that they did most certainly still exist and that I was in one of them at this very moment.  “But if you stay at the hotel, you will automatically be put on the bar’s registry of official members,” she said.  Well, once again, fate intervened and made my choice for me.

I did some laundry and then had dinner at the Irish Inn Restaurant.  I tried the chicken-fried steak this time and regretted it right away.  It’s like a Salisbury steak coated in chicken-tasting fried coating.  Is it chicken?  Is it beef?  Both?  I ate about half and left, not liking the fact that my food was giving me mixed signals.

At the Irish Inn Bar and Lounge, there were no mixed signals.  I drank bottles of Bud and watched a baseball game with three other guys, all of whom were wearing camouflage trucker hats.  Once again, I was the odd man out.  But some younger people showed up later and I shot some pool with them, so it turned out to be a decent time.


Day 8

I woke up at The Irish Inn and watched the Italy-Australian match which Italy won on a controversial call for a penalty kick in stoppage time.  Let’s face it, the Italian player took a dive.  It’s what the Italian soccer team does best. 

It would be another short day, so I set out to Dylan singing “Pretty Boy Floyd” from the Folkways Woody Guthrie Tribute album.  The next two days would be mostly Dylan covers as I would be hearing Good As I Been To You and World Gone Wrong, his two folk song cover albums.

It was another hot day, and I finally remembered that my friend, Amy, from Baltimore had given me sun block before I left, so I parked the car at a gas station and dug through some bags in the trunk until I found it.  Relief for the trucker’s arm at last.

Now that I was in Texas I was going to spend my time here eating nothing but steak.  It was going to be all steak, all the time; a veritable steak festival, but when I got to the Red River Steakhouse in McLean, they were closed on Mondays.  I continued on, thinking that this being Texas, I would hit a steakhouse at some point but as I passed through Groom and The Leaning Tower of Texas, my stomach started rumbling.  I made the decision to stop in Conway no matter what since it was the last big town before Amarillo. 

Well, Conway has hit some tough times and there’s not a lot there that isn’t closed down and boarded up, but just as I was leaving town, I passed by a restaurant that looked open called The Blessed Mary.  I stopped the car and walked into one of the strangest places on my trip.  There were statues of Jesus and the Blessed Virgin everywhere, interspersed with huge paintings and photographs of the Pope; both the old one and the new one (Pope 2.0)  Each table was dedicated to a different saint that I guess watched over your food and blessed your fork or something, so I chose St. Paul, being a fan of Johnny Cash’s song, “The Man in White” about Saul of Taursus and his conversion to St. Paul on the road to Damascus.  There was one other trucker there, quietly eating a burger by the window.  The owners were an elderly couple; she took my order for beef tacos and he shuffled very slowly into the kitchen to make them.  After he was done, he slowly brought them out to me and then retired to a corner of the restaurant where he sat down in a Lazy-Boy recliner next to his wife who also had her feet propped up in her own Lazy-Boy, watching a small TV that they had set on one of the tables. 

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